Gem setting



B. MESTEKIN.

GEM SETTING Dec. 26, 1922.

FILED JUNE 27,192

Patented Dec. 26, 1%22.

are K. 6%? 0 251 Statutes GEM SETTING.

Application filed June 27, 1921.

To all whom it may concern Be it known that I, BERNARD MEsTEKIN, a citizen of the United States, residing at lVashington, District of Columbia, have invented certain new and useful Improvements in Gem Settings, of which the following is a specification.

In the art of jewelry making it is custom ary to set expensive stones in gold or platinum mountings by providing an undercut or recess in the metal, then placing the stone within the recess, and then swaging metal over the edge of the stone either around the entire periphery of the gem or by means of prongs. This necessarily covers and conceals a portion of the gem and such covering is the more pronounced in the case of an expensive gem where it is desirable to make the setting more secure and accordingly the prongs or the otherwise bent metal over the edge of the gem is made heavier, thus detracting considerably from the beauty of the finished piece of jewelry; a thing which is contrary to the purposein this art. To avoid this I set the expenslve gem in a manner as illustrated in the draw ing which forms part of this specification and in which- Figure 1 is a sectional elevation of a piece of jewelry showing the manner in which the gems are set;

Fig. 2 is a plan view showing only the arrangement of the gem and the surrounding stones to the exclusion of the metalllc part of the jewel;

Fig. 3' is a side elevation of one of the small stones showing the recess for receiving the main gem; and

Figs. 4 and 5 show modified forms of shapes of the holding stones.

Like characters of reference designate like parts in each of the several views.

In the drawing 1 designates the main gem surrounded by a plurality of holding stones 2 of any suitable cut as illustrated in Figs. 2, a and 5. Each of the stones 2 is provided with an undercut groove 4 as clearly illustrated in Fig. 3. These grooves at constitute a retaining seat for the gem 1.

To set the main gem I first fit the small stones 2 into the metallic member 3 of the piece of jewelry then I set fast about half Serial No. 480,630.

the number of the small stones in the metal over an arc of about 180 then I place the remaining small stones in their seats and while yet loose therein I introduce the main gem and thereafter fasten the said loose stones in the metal by swaging or forcing metal over and around the edges thereof in a manner to force all of the surrounding holding stones 2 to tightly hug the main gem. The result 13 a very beautiful and strong setting with no metal immediately surrounding the main gem.

In setting a diamond I may use colorless sapphires or small diamonds as the holding stones for the main gem. Or I may use blue sapphires surrounding a diamond, this arrangement I found to impart an apparent blue tint to the main gem giving the effect of a blue white diamond. However, I do not wish to be restricted to either quality or color of stones nor to the shape of the main gem or that of the holding stones.

I claim as my invention:

1. In a mounting, a metallic part, a central gem set therein provided with a peripheral edge, and means to hold the gem in the mounting, said means consisting of a plurality of stones fastened in said metallic part, said stones being provided with undercut grooves to embrace only the edge of the central gem. q

2. A cluster mounting comprising a center stone provided with a peripheral edge, grooved stones embracing the edge of said center stone for holding it, and a metallic part forming a bed for the cluster and providing a positive hold for the said grooved stones.

3. As an article of manufacture, a gem mounting comprising a metallic member of a piece of jewelry, small stones provided with grooves and set in said metallic member by swaging metal around and over them, and a main gem embraced and held by the small stones in said grooves.

4. As an article of manufacture, a stone for a. gem setting having a top surface, a bottom surface and peripheral edge, a portion of the peripheral edge being of sharp ridge formation adapted to be set in the metallic part of a piece of jewelry, and an undercut groove formed along another portion of the edge substantially opposite that portion of the edge Which is of sharp ridge formation for holding a gem.

5. For a gem setting of the cluster type, a plurality of stones, each of said stones having a top surface, bottom surface and peripheral edges, the outermostedges of said stones being adapted to be fastened into the metallic part of a piece of jewelry by" swaging metal thereon, the innermost edges of said stones presenting an opening for the reception of a central gem, the said inner most edges being provided With an alined undercut groove, adapted to embrace the edge of the central gem for holding it.

In testimony whereof I afiix my signature.

' BERNARD MESTEKIN. 

